I Used Hair Oil All Wrong Until a Hairstylist Told Me This

On ends

While you can apply hair oil to damp or dry hair, Bellemare recommends using it on dry strands because oil and water don’t mix. “On wet hair, it can’t properly absorb and may just sit on the surface,” she says. “Applying it to dry hair helps seal in moisture, adds shine, and smooths frizz where it’s most effective. It’s also best to avoid using oil before blow-drying, as most oils aren’t heat protectants and can cause damage when exposed to high heat.”

Read the instructions and drop the appropriate amount of hair oil onto your palm. Rub your hands together, and start at the very ends of your strands, then work the oil through the hair, making your way up to your midlengths. With the excess oil left between your fingers, comb the rest through the midlengths to the ends to add shine.

As a treatment

Hair oils that are rich in fatty acids can help improve hair density and encourage a balanced, healthy environment for hair to grow in, according to Rogerio Cavalcante, a hairstylist and owner of the Second Floor Salon in NYC. If you’re using hair oil as an overnight treatment to help with breakage, brittle strands, and thinning, Cavalcante recommends timing it with wash day. Use a generous amount on the scalp and ends before bed, then wash out the excess the morning after. Don’t have the time? Bellemare says to leave the treatment on for at least 30 minutes, though overnight is recommended for deeper nourishment. “Be sure to shampoo and condition thoroughly afterward to remove excess oil and prevent product buildup.”

When should I use hair oil?

The optimal times to use hair oil are before washing your hair or after a blow-dry. “Before washing, apply it to the midlengths and ends to create a protective barrier that helps prevent shampoo from stripping moisture, especially for dry or coarse hair,” says Bellemare. “It’s also ideal as a finishing step after blow-drying; once hair is fully dry, it helps lock in moisture, smooth frizz, and boost shine.”

As far as how often to use hair oil, this also depends on your hair type, says Amy Huson, owner of Rose Salon in Venice, California. “If you have oily hair, I only recommend applying it one to two times a week. Normal hair types can tolerate three times a week,” she says. If you have coarse or dry hair, a small daily dose of oil is beneficial, as well as a weekly treatment oil to make your hair look shiny and healthier.

Heat-protectant oils

Some oils require application on damp hair or hair that’s about to be dried—those would be heat-protecting oils. You can also use it on dry hair before using a heat-styling tool like a curling iron or straightener to help shield and protect strands from getting fried.