How the Olsen Sisters Turned The Row Into a Quiet Luxury Powerhouse
As this year’s fashion week season kicks off globally, Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen are preparing their luxury fashion brand The Row for Paris Fashion Week later this month, for the first time as a member of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM). The organization behind Paris Fashion Week accepted the 20-year-old brand in July alongside Alaïa, Tom Ford and Zimmermann.
The Row joins heritage pillars like Schiaparelli, late-century maisons like Jean Paul Gaultier and modern pioneers such as Off-White in the FHCM. While The Row hasn’t participated in New York Fashion Week since 2019, the Olsens’ relatively young, American-born brand makes its mark with a distinctly minimalist expression and urban functionalism reflective of its New York roots.
Named after London’s tailoring hub, Savile Row, The Row eschews the visible logos and loud advertising often associated with luxury. Even its largely logo-less apparel and accessories remain distinct from legacy brands like Brunello Cucinelli and contemporaries such as Khaite and Toteme. The Row’s price point is generally more ambitious, too: The Dakara Coat costs $12,500, while bags like the Agnes can approach $6,000. Rare editions can reach the tens of thousands; Jennifer Lawrence was seen carrying a $33,000 crocodile Lady Bag in January.
The Row’s acceptance into the FHCM is monumental, according to Derek Warburton, a celebrity stylist who has worked with Jessica Alba, Miranda Kerr and Ariel Winter. “It shows that younger houses can fit into the standards of luxury set by the organization without being necessarily European,” Warburton, who is also the founder of Gurus Magazine, told Observer.
Perhaps best known for the Margaux bag, the Hudson slide and its zipped boot, The Row is “not distracted by trends,” Tammy Smulders, CEO of Trends & Culture, a creative and strategy studio for luxury brands, told Observer. Instead, CEO Ashley Olsen and creative director Mary-Kate Olsen remain true to their personal style—in clothes, art and expression at large.
Working with specialized artisans, The Row manufactures its products in Italy, France and the U.S., while design is centered in New York, Paris and London. Most of its leather is sourced from European tanneries and handcrafted in Italy. And its cashmere comes from places such as India and Mongolia.
An artistic “point of view”
To stand out in the minimalist milieu, you need “a real point of view,” added Smulders, whose studio works with brands such as Givenchy, Louis Vuitton, Montblanc and Tiffany & Co. The Row has a consistent and well-understood design language built around a reduced color palette, expert fabrication and, in some cases, exaggerated proportions. Beyond its products, The Row has created an ecosystem around itself, building on a consistent design philosophy.
Upon entering its London store, for example, visitors encounter installations from 20th-century artists such as light artist James Turrell, sculptor John Chamberlain and furniture designer Charlotte Perriand. Its boutiques are architecturally driven, featuring elements such as a sliding fitting-room door by architect Jean Prouvé at the Paris location. The Row’s Instagram feed is largely filled with photographs of art of this ilk, interspersed with images of its own collections. The brand also shares a monthly Spotify playlist designed to create an elevated atmosphere around its work.
“It’s not just about clothing,” said Smulders. “It’s a sign in many cases of tastefulness, of cultural appreciation and knowledge…It’s a bigger statement than just a fashion statement.”
That’s why The Row’s quiet luxury works: Esteemed artists are recognized by their style, not their logos. Similar to Loewe’s Puzzle purse collection, The Row’s flagships have defined where their style begins and ends. At the same time, the consumer push toward stealth wealth has positioned The Row in a favorable light.
“What current consumers want is to feel that they belong in the cast of luxury, and not be walking ads for their products,” said Warburton, the celebrity stylist.
Even as its popularity has spread beyond the artistically devoted and fashion cognoscenti to a broader market, the Olsens remain “very focused on their own look and aesthetic,” said Smulders. That focus has helped them “gain that respect and earn that accreditation over time.”
The Row’s elevated status—not only in this fall’s major fashion shows but also in the popular conversation—has resulted in part from a major cultural shift, said Warburton. “Clothing is now a statement of personality, of someone’s identity, instead of just a quick trend or branded fashion,” he said. “Nowadays, a person sees themselves in their clothing, and an expertly crafted piece says a lot more about that person’s care for their identity and self-image.”
Given the Olsens’ history of remaining true to their personal style, albeit an evolving one, that authenticity and exacting craftsmanship have inevitably bolstered their status as an imposing force in the global luxury fashion industry. Now an FHCM member, the brand’s focus on attention to detail and recognizable silhouettes, fabrics and movements creates a significant opportunity to become a heritage brand of the future.
Going forward, the likeliest challenge for the fashion house will be “to maintain the quality and distinction of their work while evolving,” said Warburton. Built not just on quietude but also on a scarcity model seen in predecessors like Hermès, The Row proves that luxury doesn’t need to shout to endure.
