Views From the Top: The Art of Wintering in St. Moritz
When it comes to the finer things in life, there are certain indulgences for which we simply must credit the Swiss: namely, artisanal chocolate, expensive cheese, luxury watches, five-star hotels and, of course, the art of lavish ski vacations. Of all the high-altitude villages in the Swiss Alps, St. Moritz reigns as the capital of alpine glamour, though Gstaad makes a fair play for the title. Alas, St. Moritz is where winter tourism first began, and has been hosting royalty and celebrities (and their hangers-on) since 1864. Before this glittering Swiss city established itself as the place to ski-and-be-seen, après culture as we know it today was virtually nonexistent.
Located in southeastern Switzerland, close to the Italian border (the nearest major city is Milan, not Zurich), St. Moritz sits in the Upper Engadine valley at an elevation of 5,910 feet, surrounded by glacial lakes and staggering mountain views. The bucolic charm of St. Moritz has drawn visitors for hundreds of years, but in the 17th and 18th centuries, it operated as a Belle Époque summer retreat. The mineral waters of Mauritius Spring were said to have healing powers, but well-heeled tourists would only visit the town from May to September—after all, why would anyone want to stick around for the cold, snowy winter months?
Frustrated by the seasonal drop in business, Johannes Badrutt, founder of Kulm Hotel St. Moritz, challenged his English summertime guests to a bet in 1864: if they returned that winter, he promised they’d enjoy sunny days on the hotel terrace, and if not, he’d fully reimburse all their travel costs. (St. Moritz averages 300 sunny days every year.) The vacationers took him up on the offer for that winter and returned to Britain quite satisfied after their sojourn in the Alps, and winter tourism was born.
St. Moritz has remained a must-visit seasonal retreat for everyone from Old Hollywood stars (Audrey Hepburn, Brigitte Bardot, Greta Garbo) to fashion designers (Coco Chanel), politicians (Winston Churchill) and royalty (King Charles, Princess Diana and King Juan Carlos of Spain). Today, visitors can partake in a mix of slopeside socializing and late-night cocktails at Drac’s all season long. There’s always something going on in St. Moritz during the winter season, plus a few annual extravaganzas worth noting on your calendar. For example, the Snow Polo World Cup, held every January since 1985, is the world’s first and oldest snow polo event; it’s the ultimate see-and-be-seen event in St. Moritz—expect floor-length furs, outrageous snowsuits and crystal goblets of champagne. And you’ll want to look the part, so check out the offerings at Jet Set, a St. Moritz-founded downtown boutique, for upscale winter sportswear and Eurocentric ski fashion.
From the must-know palatial accommodations to where to embark on off-piste adventures, here’s an insider’s guide to winter in St. Moritz.
