Across the Islands of French Polynesia, Privacy Is the Real Luxury
It’s a Wednesday morning in Tahiti, and despite the rain, I’m feeling decidedly serene: I’m at Marae Taputapuatea on Raiatea, one of the most sacred spots on one of the most sacred islands in all of Tahiti, and I dip my hand in the lagoon as our guide, Naiki Lutz, recites traditional Tahitian ritual chants in the background.
Despite this being a UNESCO World Heritage site, there are hardly any folks around. There are no crowds to fight through; no screaming tourists nearby. The inclement conditions were undoubtedly a factor, but I realized that even in one of Tahiti’s most popular locations, you still feel a sense of privacy and solitude.
Perhaps it’s because French Polynesia is made up of 116 islands and atolls, so there’s room for everyone. It’s not random, though; there’s serious intention behind the lack of crowds: French Polynesia has introduced a plan to cap the number of tourists at around 280,000 per year, which is about one visitor per local.
Increasingly, travelers share the same sentiments when it comes to planning a summer trip—they just want to “get away from it all,” relax for the season and escape the crowds. And yet! Every year, you see the same crowds island-hopping between Mykonos and Santorini in Greece; sailing the same old beaten path along the Amalfi Coast; frequenting the buzziest beach clubs in Saint-Tropez.
In today’s travel landscape, privacy, peace and seclusion have become some of the most in-demand elements of luxury hospitality. So, for those who truly value an off-grid, private escape, why not try a different kind of island hopping in French Polynesia?
First things first: it’s going to take a minute to actually reach the islands of Tahiti, but it’s well worth the trip. (A quick note: Tahiti is technically one island within French Polynesia, though the name is often used—including in this story—to refer to French Polynesia as a whole.) From the East Coast, you’re easily looking at a 20-hour travel day, but from California, it’s a mere eight-and-a-half-hour direct flight to Fa’a’ā International Airport in the capital city of Papeete. There are endless ways to explore Tahiti, and that’s part of the beauty of it. There are five main archipelagos in French Polynesia, and while there’s something to appreciate about them all, the Society Islands are particularly special—and happen to be rather convenient for an island-hopping adventure.
The Society Islands are composed of 14 distinct isles and atolls, including Tahiti, Bora Bora, Raiatea, Taha’a and Moorea. From Papeete, you’ll usually need to take either a boat taxi or another short flight to get to your destination. For travelers eager to bop around all of the Society Islands, it’s worth considering a private boat charter, for a floating home base from which you can explore at a moment’s notice—Bora Bora for dinner, Raiatea for breakfast and Moorea up next with a few snorkeling and kayaking stops on the way. As lovely as a sailing journey can be, however, there’s something about Tahiti that feels best experienced when you’re on one of the pristine islands, venturing into the countless lagoons as you please.
Vahine, a private island resort located off Taha’a, requires a short flight to Raiatea and then a 35-minute boat transfer from the lagoon straight to the hotel’s dock. Vahine is for those who want a genuinely remote adventure—it’s a 23-acre private escape, and can host a maximum of 18 guests in its nine beachfront and overwater bungalows.
Despite its remote locale, it’s surprisingly easy to reach other islands, since you just go to the Vahine dock and board the boat transfer. Vahine is part of Taha’a, known as the Vanilla Island, and a tour of one of the isle’s vanilla plantations is a must—nearly 80 percent of Tahitian vanilla is made here. If you want to spend more time on Taha’a, consider a trip to one of the pearl farms or rum producers.
There’s nothing wrong with staying put at a hotel on a tropical trip, but when island hopping is this easy, it’s foolish not to make the most of it. That said, if you prefer to lounge for a few days, make sure you venture around Raiatea upon arrival or departure; it’s known as the “sacred island” and is considered the birthplace of the gods in Tahitian Polynesian culture. Marae Taputapuatea is a nonnegotiable stop, but you really will feel the spiritual energy throughout the island; the people are what make this place so special. KokoFare, run by locals Heifara Ebb and Tahia Tefaatau, is known for coconut everything, and I still dream of their coffee, made with homemade coconut milk and coconut sugar syrup. Coconut trees abound in Tahiti and are particularly important in local culture; they’re considered a tree of life, and have a myriad of uses, whether it’s coconut oil, sugar, palm fronds and more.
Papeete doesn’t get as much attention on some Tahitian island itineraries, but you shouldn’t dismiss the Tahitian capital. Explore Marché Papeete for local curios, and walk into one of the adjacent restaurants for a quick bite—it’s not a trip to Tahiti without poisson cru. Exploring and learning about local cultures and customs is one of the most exciting and satisfying parts of travel; take the time to chat with locals, and you’ll always discover something new and noteworthy. Make the effort to experience the Polynesian culture; if you’re staying put at a hotel, many of them host special evenings and events with local dances, food, music and performances, and you shouldn’t leave Tahiti without attending at least one.
There are plenty of ways to plan an extravagant trip to Tahiti, but the luxury travel aficionado knows that there’s one place that manages to stand a step above the rest: The Brando, a private island resort on Tetiaroa that was once Marlon Brando’s personal French Polynesian getaway. As I boarded the 20-minute flight on the resort’s exclusive provider, Air Tetiaroa, I attempted to taper my excitement—I’ve been lucky enough to visit spectacular properties throughout my career as a travel editor, but I had been dreaming of seeing this particular place for years. More specifically, ever since I wrote about former President Barack Obama penning his memoirs on the island. And somehow, despite my ridiculously lofty expectations, The Brando managed to surpass them all.
The Brando is designed with guests’ privacy in mind; the 35 villas are built into the natural landscape and are virtually invisible when viewed from the beach. Each villa is outfitted with a private pool, beach access, a chaise and a hammock. Even if the hotel is at full capacity, it still feels like you’re on your own private island thanks to thoughtful features like inventive landscaping at the main pool, so that loungers are separated into secluded nooks.
It’s also one of the few hospitality projects out there that has genuinely dedicated itself to sustainability and eco-friendly practices, sans greenwashing. The eco-resort was built with respect for the natural environment, focusing on conserving resources and limiting waste. The resort’s primary goal is to minimize its carbon footprint through exploration, discovery, education and conservation via the Tetiaroa Society, a nonprofit conservation organization dedicated to protecting the environment and culture of the atoll.
I knew the resort would be a five-star experience, but it takes more than a pretty view (of which there are many) and good food (phenomenal on all counts) to stand out in today’s hospitality landscape. I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again; it really is the people that make a stay, and both the staff and fellow guests at The Brando make it the ultimate Tahitian experience, from the superstars at the pool desk (shoutout to Lambert), to the
And yet, despite all its extravagance, The Brando is entirely without airs or any sense of pretension; you feel like you’re simply at home—that is, if you happened to reside on an opulent private island. Guests traverse the island via bike, often barefoot and in a swimsuit, en route to grab a burger at Bob’s Bar or a Tetiaroa Sunset cocktail at the beach. It’s the kind of island-hopping stop where you just might end up staying forever—that is, if your bank account can handle it.
