An Insider’s Guide to Durango, Colorado’s Most Underrated Western Town

An Insider’s Guide to Durango, Colorado’s Most Underrated Western Town


Durango, Colorado, is one of the most underrated slices of mountain country in the American West. I’ve grown up coming to the area every summer, and am lucky to have a family home in a nearby town. My grandfather bought a small cabin in the woods for about $27,000 in the 1970s, and we’ve kept it in the family ever since. This quiet, rugged slice of the San Juan Mountains is my personal refuge, offering the occasional, much-needed escape from Los Angeles. And whenever I find myself needing a break from my ultra-remote retreat in nature, I drive about 45 minutes over to Durango, and remember just how much this former smelting hub has to offer.

As someone who has spent time in Jackson Hole, Aspen, Bozeman, Paradise Valley and Vail, I can’t quite comprehend why travelers continue to overlook Durango. Don’t get me wrong—those places are all stunning, and they admittedly offer more luxurious amenities and traditional resorts than what’s available in La Plata County. 

And yet, those craving a western getaway that’s nicely balanced between adventurous and restorative will find Durango particularly rewarding, thanks to its pristine wilderness and endless outdoor excursions. In the summer, the scenic hiking trails are framed by lush wildflowers and the occasional rogue raspberry bush, whether you’re looking to stroll along the Animas River or get lost among the glimmering aspen trees while discovering epic alpine views. There are lakes for swimming, streams for fishing and whitewater rivers for rafting. In the winter, Purgatory Resort is a mecca for skiers, as the steep cliffs of Million Dollar Highway become blanketed in sparkling snow. While I prefer summer and fall to winter, the Victorian storefronts and railroad heritage are on display all year long, making Durango a quintessential thread in the history of America’s Wild West. If you’re ready to trade the crowds of Colorado’s more famous—and crowded—resort towns for something a bit more real and rugged, here’s how to eat, drink and explore your way through Durango.





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Sophie Clearwater

Vancouver-based environmental journalist, writing about nature, sustainability, and the Pacific Northwest.

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