Praiano Is Where the Amalfi Coast Drops the Act

In Positano, there is no escape from the crowds, who gather in hordes in the picturesque Amalfi Coast town between March and October. While Positano has become iconic for its colorful, cliffside buildings and umbrella-covered beaches, Praiano, its neighbor down the road, is less famous. Nestled on the cliff’s edge with endless views of the Tyrrhenian Sea, Praiano is just as scenic as its bustling neighbor to the west, but far more tranquil and, some argue, more authentic to the Italian way of life. 

The difference between Positano and Praiano, even during the quieter season, couldn’t be more stark. When I visited the area in late October, as many of the hotels were preparing to close for the winter, Positano was still heaving with people. The town felt like a tourist trap or a Disneyland attraction, created to evoke the feeling of the Amalfi Coast in the most cliched way. I left after only a few hours, eager to return to the charming streets of Praiano, which feel far less like a film set and more like a place where you might live. 

Home to approximately 2,100 people, Praiano is notably quaint, thanks in part to its small size, stretching along the Italian coast between Positano and Amalfi. It would perhaps go completely unnoticed by tourists if it were not home to Casa Angelina, a luxury hotel that was opened in 2005 by Antonino Cappiello, who transformed an existing 1970s property into something far grander. 

The hotel’s location offers the best view on the Amalfi Coast, at least according to Casa Angelina’s managing director, Domenico De Simone. From the town and from Casa Angelina, you can see Capri, Li Galli and Positano, offering a sense of the region’s true scope. “Praiano is the last village here that is authentic, real, genuine and very relaxed,” De Simone tells Observer. 

Casa Angelina is perched atop craggy cliffs on the western side of Praiano. Guests have access to La Gavitella Beach Club, a private club located down dozens of stairs, but the better way into town is via a discreet side door from the pool deck. It opens into the maze of narrow streets surrounding the hotel, where cats sun themselves, and teenagers roam playing music on a weekend afternoon. The streets eventually lead to Parrocchia di San Gennaro, the parish church, which first opened its doors in 1589. There are a few other hotels and apartment rentals, including the contemporary and intimate Hotel Onda Verde and the more budget-friendly La Divina Amalfi Coast, as well as some local shops and restaurants along the main road. Further east, the Marina di Praia, a hidden cove, is home to fishermen, cafes and an intimate beach. 

Travelers can easily access Positano, Amalfi and Ravello by car or bus. Casa Angelina offers an hourly shuttle that goes between the hotel and Positano (it takes less than 10 minutes), though De Simone notes that many guests don’t stay long, especially during the busier summer months, which is exactly what I experienced. “In the last two years, the real situation is that people go to Positano, spend a maximum of two hours there and have a very bad experience,” he says. 

Praiano is exceptionally well-located. “It is really easy for all of our guests to reach all the surrounding areas,” Antonia Gambardella, one of Casa Angelina’s concierge specialists, says. “Positano is an iconic destination, but it is really crowded. Praiano evokes an authenticity that the rest of the towns of the Amalfi coast are losing a little bit.” 

That idea of authenticity is repeated often. It’s something that’s hard to explain definitively, but you can certainly feel it. Praiano is smaller than the surrounding towns; it’s less than a square mile. Children play soccer in front of the church, and families go for weekend walks along the coast. Cafes are frequented by locals, who seem unbothered by visitors. Despite its size, there’s plenty to do. Praiano is situated in a key spot along the Path of the Gods, a hiking trail that extends from Bomerano to Nocelle. The entire trail, best traversed in spring or autumn when the weather is less intense, is about six kilometers long and takes the better part of a day due to the inclines. The catch is that to access the path from Praiano, you have to ascend nearly 1,000 stairs. It’s an intense climb, but worth it for the views. 

An easier walk is in town, where visitors can stroll to the Torre a Mare, a medieval tower, or follow the coastal road to Marina di Praia, which can be accessed on foot via a winding path. Unlike the crammed beach clubs in Positano, the small beach at the Marina di Praia is secluded and often filled with locals. It’s there that Di Martino recommends Trattoria Da Armandino, a family-owned waterside restaurant that has been around for more than 100 years. “The seafood is very fresh because the fishermen catch it in the morning and then they serve it at night,” she says. 

“This particular restaurant is iconic all around the Amalfi Coast because it is one of the few restaurants that still has their own fishermen,” Gambardella adds. “It’s usually older fishermen out on their boats at 2 a.m., and in the morning they bring everything that they catch during the night. Praiano is famous for totani, which are a kind of squid that has to be caught during the night.”

Totani, a variety of European squid, are found in the waters along the Amalfi Coast. They are so plentiful that Praiano has a signature dish made from them known as totani e patate, a combination of squid and potatoes sautéed with olive oil, tomatoes and garlic. It’s a rustic dish, but hearty and surprisingly light. It’s available in many of the restaurants, but those who want to better understand the connection between the sea and plate can join Casa Angelina for a nighttime squid fishing expedition. The experience is available between May and September, depending on sea and weather conditions, and is a great way to be part of the local tradition.

Enjoying seafood is important in Praiano. Although travelers can find the expected Italian fare, like pasta and pizza, around the Amalfi Coast, simple dishes of fresh fish, especially totani and pezzogna, reflect what the residents eat, again offering a genuine experience of the area. Other noteworthy dining options include La Taverna del Leone, a family-owned spot that dates back to 1965, and Ristorante Km0, a newer restaurant that focuses on hyper-local ingredients and also offers cooking classes. For breathtaking views, book a terrace table at Il Pirata Ristorante. 

There is less shopping in Praiano than in Positano, but what you do find is often more interesting. Peruse La Bacheca for gift-worthy homemade ceramics. At Rosalinda Flowers Lab, which provides floral arrangements for high-end weddings, passersby will often encounter an older man weaving flower baskets outside.

“Praiano almost brings us back to ancient times, where there were more emotional and family connections,” Gambardella says. “We have some guests who leave from our shortcut, and they say, ‘I found your neighbor, and he asked me to come inside and drink some coffee.’ That is really simple, but at the same time, it is so authentic and so emotional that in more famous parts, you cannot find it. Over here, there’s a piece of life that is calm. You feel the rhythm of the local life, and that is very beautiful.” 

In October, Praiano was calm to the point of almost feeling abandoned—except, of course, for the cats. Positano, on the other hand, was chaotic and loud. It’s not surprising; Positano attracts more than 12,000 daily visitors between Easter and October and nearly 5 million visitors annually. There are no numbers widely available for Praiano, but it’s likely far less. It gets busier in July and August, like the rest of the coast, although it’s not felt in the same way as Positano. Traveling during the shoulder seasons in spring and autumn can help ensure complete tranquility. 

That serene feeling is augmented by views of the water and the intense sunsets that unfold each evening. They were especially concentrated in hue in October, which many of Casa Angelina’s employees said is characteristic of the time of year. Some locals even refer to Praiano as the “sunset town.”

“Every sunset, every month, every year is different,” De Simone confirms. “You come to the Amalfi Coast and to Praiano and to Casa Angelina to see the sunsets and the panorama.” 

The allure of the Amalfi Coast is certainly undeniable, particularly the way it’s framed on Instagram, where the crowds are often cropped out. Positano’s over-tourism can be overwhelming and detract from what a trip to the region should feel like. While there are several compelling destinations nearby, including Ravello and Atrani, for a certain type of traveler, it’s more appealing to base yourself outside the tourist fray. Praiano may not be as dramatic as Positano, but it has something more important: the feeling that you are home.